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Triple-C Audio Modifications




Voodoo-Labs has done it again!

Enter the TC Electronic Triple-C Multi-Band Compressor
This Machine was Ravaged by Maniacal Voodoo-lab Teks,
increasing It's Silkyness, It's Smoothness, and It's Clarity





Disclaimer Notice
These modifications should be accomplished by qualified personnel who
have had enough knowledge and practice in SMD soldering techniques, at the owners risk.

WARNING - YOU DO THE MODIFICATIONS AT YOUR OWN RISK!

We are not responsible for any personal injury incurred while performing these mods.
We are not responsible for any damage to, or illegal operations of the equipment as a result of the
mods, mod errors, or possible mod misinformation via these pages.

The modifications shown here are provided for properly licensed operators only.
The user is solely responsible for making sure that any modifications made to the equipment must meet all
Federal and State Regulations for the Country of use.
Liability of damages to any equipment is the sole responsibility of the user.
Downloading , viewing, or using any information provided on these pages automatically accepts the user to the terms of this agreement.
Modifications are provided for information purposes only.
Although the greatest care has been taken while compiling these documents,
we cannot guarantee that the instructions will work on every piece of equipment.

Copyright Notice
All contents on this site, including text, graphics, and MP3 audio recordings are considered property of Voodoo-Labs and are
protected by copyright law and may not be reproduced or distributed in any way or form, without express written consent or permission by Voodoo-Labs.
Failure to comply with copyright law may result in legal action.


Not Again! You Say!
Yes ... again We say.

Voodoo-Labs never stops trying the unknown,
and accomplishing the utterly Impossible!




Triple-C Mods


Some Triple-C Discussion:

The Triple-C Voodoo Mods:
We here at Voodoo-Labs, have done some modifications to the Triple-C to get the best resonance, and clarity out of it.
This has to do with changing out the Op Amps to better chips with a higher bandwidth, a higher slew rate, and a lower noise.
These would be the Analog Devices AD823AN. The AN is the case designator for an 8pin, DIP case designation.
Another alternate is the AD823ANZ, it's the same part as the "Z" is just a designator for "Lead Free" manufacturing.
There are 6 of them that need to be changed out.
The old ones will be removed, and 8pin Gold Plated Sockets installed in their place.
There are also 13ea coupling caps that need to be changed out to higher quality
Panasonic FC series, Low ESR caps for improved audio transfer and sonic signature.
There are No Power Supply improvements on this unit, as it uses a very well Filtered Switching Supply.
These two Mods increase the Clarity and Bass Response considerably.
The results are just Fantastic!

UPDATE 8-20-09:
Due to several failures of several Electrolytic Caps in the switching power supply of the Triple-C,
Voodoo-LABS now changes ALL of the Caps in the power supply to the Panasonic FC series.
Unfortunately, we do not have a list of them for you at this time, but Digikey stocks all the values that are needed.



Gotta have PARTS!!!

Triple-C Mod Parts
Parts
Part Numbers
9ea - 100uF @ 25v Electrolytic
Digikey - P10269-ND ---- EEU-FC1E106
4ea -220uF @ 16v Electrolytic
Digikey - P11199-ND ---- EEU-FC1C221
6ea -Gold Plated 8 pin DIP Socket
Digikey - ED56083-ND ---- 110-13-308-41-001000
6ea - AD823AN 8 pin DIP Op Amp
Digikey -AD823AN-ND ---- AD823AN
ALT -Digikey -AD823ANZ-ND ---- AD823ANZ




Soldering TIPS:

They're a few tricks to unsoldering Op Amps that we'd like to share with you.

Tip #1:
There's a conformal coating on the surface of the PC Board to keep moisture and such from getting to the components and solder pads.
This must be removed before heat is applied.
If it isn't, then you run the risk of it flowing in with the solder and contaminating an otherwise good solder joint.
They're expensive chemicals made just for this application, But we've been using Acetone on a Q-Tip for years with no adverse consequences.
It also works great for cleaning the Flux up after the soldering is finished.

Tip #2:
Un-Soldering can be a real pain in the butt.
They're many special devices just for this.
The best way to remove the old Op Amps without special tools, is to take some small sharp nippers and
cut each and every one of the leads on the chip while it is still soldered to the PC board.
Make SURE all the leads are clipped, then pop the old Op Amp off the PC board.
Then take some Needle nose pliers or tweezers and pull each cut lead from its solder hole while applying the soldering iron.
Then go back and use the solder sucker to clean out the holes.
Be Careful to get all the cut leads off of the board.
Then clean up the area with some acetone and a Q-tip.
Presto...the Op Amp is removed and the solder pads are clean.

If the Solder Pump gives you problems, the Solder Braid also works great on the Plated Thru holes in the circuit board.
Like were the Electrolytics are mounted.
Take a small bit of solder and "reflow" the old solder joint.
Then make the "V" with the braid, and apply the soldering iron tip. It will suck all the solder out of the hole.
Most of the time...;)

Tip #3:
For soldering we use an ultra fine tip and a thin solder.
This allows us to get in some very congested areas with the minimum of heat and solder to get the job done.
The size of the solder we use is .025" diameter flux core.



Stock Op Amp Eradication!!

There are 6ea Op amps that were changed in this unit.
Their identified in the Pics below.
They will all be removed from the PC Boards and Gold Plated Sockets installed in their place.
Be sure to read the Soldering Tips above for the best way to remove the old Op Amps to prevent Circuit Board Damage.
You'll have to remove the boards completely from the unit.
This is not hard. Just go slow and be aware of what needs to happen before you do it.
One thing to Note, is that TC Electronic uses small TORX head type screws on their Equipment.

When you install the Sockets, Be SURE to install the Sockets in the correct orientation.
There is a little 'Dip' in one end of the Socket, this is placed where Pin #1 is on the Circuit Board.
There is usually a 'Dip' shown on the PC Board Silkscreen for the IC. Just match the two up.

The new Op Amp pins will be a little wider then the sockets.
You'll need to squish the pins in slightly to make them line up with the socket holes.
It's best to observe ESD static procedures here. The chips can be damaged by static electricity.
Also be sure to orient the new Op Amp with it's #1 pin to the #1 pin on the socket! You will destroy it otherwise.
The Op Amps will have a little 'Dimple' on top of it indicating Pin #1.
The Socket will have a 'Dip' at one end of it for the IC Pin #1 indication.
Just match the two up.

Now that they are changed, You need to let them burn in for at
least 50 hours with a signal going thru them before making any judgments.


Here's the TC Electronic Triple-C before any mods.
Here's the TC Electronic Triple-C before any mods.


Here's a view of the Triple-C Removed from It's Case.
Here's a view of the Triple-C Removed from It's Case.


These are the Op Amps that will be removed.
These are the Op Amps that will be removed.
Remove them as described in the Soldering Tips section above.


 Here's the 8pin, Gold Plated Sockets Installed.
Here's the 8pin, Gold Plated Sockets Installed.
Be SURE to install the Sockets in the correct orientation!!
There is a little 'Dip' in one end of the Socket, this is placed where Pin #1 is on the Circuit Board.
There is usually a 'Dip' shown on the PC Board Silkscreen for the IC. Just match the two up.


Here's the New Op Amps installed in the Triple-C Board.
Here's the New Op Amps installed in the Triple-C Board.
Be SURE to install the Op Amps with the correct Pin #1 Orientation to the Circuit Board!!
The Op Amps will have a little 'Dimple' on top of it indicating Pin #1.
The Circuit Board will usually show a 'Dip' at one end of the PC Board Silkscreen for the IC.
Just match the two up.
Yea Yea Yea... We know these aren't AD823's.
We were 'Rolling' these for some Audio Testing, and Yes.....They Sounded like Crap!




Electrolytic Caps:

You will be changing 13ea Capacitors to Panasonic FC types.
9ea 100uf, 25v caps, and 4ea 220uf, 16v caps.
The Caps needing to be changed are all marked in the Pics.
It's really just a matter of unsoldering and removing the old capacitors, and installing the new ones.
The sizes are very close to the same so they should fit with no problems.
No surprises here.
But Be sure to install the Capacitors with the correct Polarity!!
The Circuit Board is marked with the Polarity.

UPDATE 8-20-09:
Due to several failures of several Electrolytic Caps in the switching power supply of the Triple-C,
Voodoo-LABS now changes ALL of the Caps in the power supply to the Panasonic FC series.
Unfortunately, we do not have a list of them for you at this time, but Digikey stocks all the values that are needed.


Here's the Capacitors to change out on the Triple-C.
Here's the Capacitors to change out on the Triple-C.
4ea 220uf @ 16v, and 9ea 100uf @ 25v.



That's It !!

Now You too have a Maniacally Ravaged Machine!!
Gotta Love it!

Asta La Tacos!

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